Generosity of Strangers

Today, I cycled from Lewiston to Orofino, Idaho along the Clearwater River. The secluded river has a stronger frontier feel than the majestic Columbia, and as a result, evokes a greater sense of the history. Today, I easily imagined Lewis and Clark canoeing the rapids of the Clearwater. The historical context was filled in as I passed the site at which Lewis and Clark built their canoes, and there are frequent "Interpretive Centers" that provide background on the Nez Perce Indian nation (both in general, as well as their interaction with Lewis and Clark). The mental trip through history is made possible by the complete absence of man-made structures and vessels.

I was advised to take this route by Laurie S., a kindly waitress in Lewiston. As I sat planning my itinerary for the day at breakfast, she recognized my Adventure Cycling maps, and we struck up a conversation, discussing different local routes. By the end of the conversation, she had generously offered me the use of a vacation house that she and her husband have in Kooskia, with precise instructions on where to find the keys and how to get in. They were not using the house tonight, but I am struck by the generosity extended to a complete stranger. As it turns out, I didn't make it to Kooskia today, and will probably bicycle past it tomorrow, but I was still touched. How many of us would be that generous and trusting?

On less joyous note, today I experience my first flat tire after 1,310 miles on the road. There are tricks to minimizing the chance of punctures, but my luck finally ran out. I've encountered other wheelmen who complained of punctures literally every other day, and I've dodged the bullet for quite a while. I consider myself lucky for going this far without a flat, and I'll be thrilled if I can continue to suffer them this infrequently.